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The Star and Crescent Sample Room

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I recently came across this ad from the 1886 Oshkosh City Directory for William H. Englebright's Star and Crescent Sample Room.

I wonder if old Bill noticed the misspelling of Crescent.

Englebright's saloon was at the corner of Main and Algoma (where the sundial is at Opera House Square). The red arrow in the photo below points to the saloon's door facing Algoma Blvd.

Photo courtesy of Dan Radig.

Englebright was born in England and served Bass Ale on draught at his bar. He was one of the few Oshkosh saloon keepers of this period still pushing ale. Most others had succumbed to the flood of lager.

Bass Ale was an altogether different beer at that time. It was around 6% ABV with a hopping rate more like an IPA. Here's a sketch of the old beer, circa 1908.



If you'd like to dig deeper on Englebright, you can find more on him HERE. Cheers!

Understanding HighHolder Brewing

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HighHolder Brewing Company has been a going concern for almost two years now. It's the smallest of Oshkosh's four breweries. It's also the most misunderstood, which is not altogether surprising. HighHolder is unlike any other brewery in Wisconsin that I'm aware of.

HighHolder was co-founded in 2017 by Mike Schlosser and Shawn O'Marro. But HighHolder is now a one-man operation with Schlosser being the sole owner. He handles everything related to the business of the brewery and makes all of its beer. He does that in a space he sublets from O'Marro in back of O'Marro's Public House.

The relationship with O'Marro's has been a source of confusion. It leads people to assume the brewery and pub are tied together. They are not. Still, you can understand why people might think otherwise. O'Marro's is where HighHolder beer has most frequently appeared.

"Originally, we thought we'd be able to have three or four beers consistently on tap there, but that didn't happen," Schlosser says. "Now, less than half of my beer goes on tap at O'Marro's."

It's been showing up at places like Fin 'n' Feather in Winneconne, and in Oshkosh locations such as Pete's Garage and The Roxy. The one thing Schlosser doesn't have to do himself is go around hand selling the beer. "They've been coming to me," he says. In fact, he's had to turn down some requests. "I've been approached by people to have a permanent line in their bar, but then I'm obligated," he says. "Thank you, but I can't do that. Not at this size."

Schlosser at work in the brewery.

Which leads to the other piece that makes HighHolder complicated. How do you get to know a brewery if you can't get its beer? There have been month-long stretches with no HighHolder product available. And it doesn't last long when it does come around. HighHolder's Fisherman's Tail IPA lasted all of two days when it recently went on tap at Fin 'n' Feather. That duration has pretty much become the norm.  "It just doesn't stay," Schlosser says. "Once it's on, it's gone. It's one of those things where you put it out there and it just goes."

That may be a testament to HighHolder beer, but at the moment Schlosser can't make it work to his advantage. He’s brewing on a system of his own design that can produce just over 3 barrels of beer at a turn. It's an upgrade from the one-barrel system HighHolder started with, but it hasn't remedied the brewery's habit of running dry. "It bugs me a little bit because there are people who are fans of the beer and want to be able to get it," Schlosser says. "I'm a fan of some beers, too, and it does kind of suck when you want something and it's not available."

He's come to realize, though, that the cost of keeping other people happy can be too high. "You have to understand, I work a job full time in addition to this, and then it's not just the brewing part; it's the accounting, the taxes, the cleaning, the maintenance.  Last year and the year before, I worked seven days a week straight. For two years I did that and it landed me in the hospital last December. Now, I've got a whole different outlook on what's important."

He sits back and explains what that means when it comes to brewing. "I make beer when I want and I make what I want when I want. That's the way it's got to be at this size where most of what I do profits other people more than it profits the brewery."


So far this year, HighHolder has released at least one new beer each month. That string will come to an end this summer. "I just did my production reports today and this is the first time in HighHolder history that I've reported zero production for two straight months," Schlosser says. "In a way, I'm kind of proud of that. But June is going to be a big one, so I'll have all the tanks full again by the end of the month."

That doesn't mean Schlosser has any intention of rushing anything to market. Actually, he's doing just the opposite. His brewing schedule is filled with beers that are slow to reach completion. Among them is a fruit beer that will be fermented with Brettanomyces and aged for a year; a Russian Imperial Stout named Troll Slayer that was one of his favorites from his days as a homebrewer; and a Helles that will undergo a cold and lengthy fermentation.

He’s in no hurry. And while the beer does its thing, Schlosser has time to think about what the future holds for HighHolder. His current brewhouse is maxed out. He needs more space and has started looking for it. "I wouldn't say it's the top priority just yet, but I'm putting feelers out there," he says. "It needs to be a place where I can handle the whole thing. It doesn't even necessarily have to be a taproom, but eventually, that'll be the plan; to have a taproom of my own where I'll be able to have five to eight beers available all the time."

That would certainly make things more convenient for folks seeking HighHolder beer. It would also mean the loss of something unique to this place and time. I can only explain that by example.

This past February, I heard that HighHolder was going to release a Grisette, a nearly extinct style of rustic Belgian ale. It was the first time an Oshkosh brewery had brewed a Grisette. I had never tasted one. The beer went on tap at O'Marro's and I made a point of getting there before it was gone. It turned out to be everything I had hoped it would be: mellow, slightly funky, and delicious. More than that, it was memorable. And part of what made it so was that I had to go out of my way for it. You don’t get that kind of experience with things that come easily.

Lost on Wisconsin

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Here's an extinct Wisconsin Street bar I'm sure a lot of Oshkoshers will remember. Over the years, it’s gone by many different names: The Fox River Bar, The Lost Dutchman, Nantuckets, The Bubbler, The Buffalo Breath Saloon, Nad’s... In 1934, it was John Mailahn's Fox River Bar and it looked like this...

Photo courtesy of Janet Wissink.

That picture has plenty to say. It starts with the men we see gathered around a table-top radio. They were a crew of workers from the Radford Company. Radford was just across Hancock Street from Mailahn's tavern. Maybe these guys were on their lunch break. Hitting the bar for a couple of beers at midday was once common among Oshkosh mill workers.

You might have noticed the cropped "BEER" sign hanging on the corner of the tavern near the entrance. Here's what it would have looked like in full and in color.


That sign was made for the Oshkosh Brewing Company by the Veribrite Sign Company of Chicago. It's a pre-Prohibition piece, circa 1917. Somehow it survived the dry years of 1920 to 1933. Many of those signs were consigned to the trash heap when Prohibition hit.

Behind the men is another sign painted on the side of the tavern. It's for Chief Oshkosh Special Old Lager. That sign would have gone up shortly after Prohibition was repealed. Chief Oshkosh Special was introduced by the Oshkosh Brewing Company during Prohibition as a non-alcoholic brew. When the dry law ended, they made it into a real beer in and re-branded it as Chief Oshkosh Special Old Lager.


It's no accident that the place was draped with Oshkosh Brewing Company advertising. The bar was owned by the brewery. Before we get into that, let's draw a bead on exactly where the tavern stood. Below is a map from 1949. The Fox River Bar is shown at 44 Wisconsin Street with a red star in front of it.


All of that is gone. Here's a recent aerial view of that same area. The building with the red and white roof is Mahoney's Restaurant & Bar. The red star is approximately where the Fox River River Bar stood.


There had been a tavern at that site since 1894 when a mill worker named Fred Martin converted his home there into a saloon and grocery store. The groceries didn't last. The saloon did.

Herman Mailahn became the saloon's proprietor in 1903. He had been born in 1875 and had spent nearly all his life in Oshkosh. He left for a few months in 1898 to go to the Philippines where he fought in the Spanish-American War. After he returned home, he took a bartending job at a saloon on High Ave. that no longer stands. A couple of years after that, he became the keeper of the bar at 44 Wisconsin Street. But that was short lived. And so was Herman Mailahn. He died in 1905 at the age of 29 from an obstruction of the bowels.

In swooped the Oshkosh Brewing Company. At that time, OBC was buying up saloon properties in Oshkosh in a bid to take control of the Oshkosh beer market. The saloon at 44 Wisconsin became part of that gambit. Just two months after Herman Mailahn died, the brewery bought the tavern and installed Herman's younger brother John as its proprietor. John Mailahn would run that saloon for the next 47 years. The Oshkosh Brewing Company was his landlord for all of that time.

Prior to 1920, Mailahn's saloon was a straight-up tied house. The only beer served there was beer made by the Oshkosh Brewing Company. That ended when Prohibition hit and the brewery had to stop making beer. Nonetheless, Mailahn managed to keep the bar open. He ran it as a soft drink parlor and lunch counter. Legitimately. Mailahn was never busted on a dry-law violation.

From the 1926 Oshkosh City Directory.

When Prohibition ended in 1933, the beer returned but the old tied-house arrangements had been made illegal. Some breweries, however, gamed the system. The Oshkosh Brewing Company did. OBC transferred its saloon properties to a real-estate holding company whose directors were the same men who ran the brewery. They continued to have influence over the tavern keepers who leased property from them. In some of these places, you'd still find nothing but the landlord's beer on tap. Beer from other breweries was made available, but only in bottles – a more expensive option.


By the time John Mailahn retired in 1952, the bar at 44 Wisconsin had been known as the Fox River Bar for nearly 20 years. And it would retain that name for the next 20 years. For most of that time, it was run by a fellow named Clarence Fischer.

Fischer was an eighth-grade dropout born in Marshfield in 1907. He had been driving a coal truck before finding his true calling in 1953 when he took over the Fox River Bar. Fischer appears to have done quite well there. He purchased the building in 1965. Its address had been changed by then to 100 Wisconsin Street following the 1957 ordinance that revamped Oshkosh's street numbering system.

A bar token with the new address of the Fox River Bar.

Fischer ran a welcoming, working-class tavern. Oshkosh author Randy Domer remembers it fondly. In his book Oshkosh: Land of Lakeflies, Bubblers and Squeaky Cheese, Domer recalls, "One of my favorite memories was listening to the tunes coming out of the old Seeburg jukebox at the Fox River Bar on Wisconsin Ave. It was where my dad liked to stop for a couple of beers on occasion and sometimes he would let me tag along."

Domer liked the place so much that he managed to save one of the old card tables that had been used there. In the photo below you can see the side pocket where a player could stow their beer while the cards skimmed across the table.


Clarence Fischer retired from the Fox River Bar in 1970. Things were changing. With the growth of the university, "the strip" of bars along Wisconsin Street went from being working class places to hangouts for younger people and college kids. For 80 years those bars had served the folks who worked in the mills and factories clustered around Wisconsin Street. That time was coming to an end.

The next photo is from 1973. The old Fox River Bar was painted red at this point and called My Brother's Place, a name borrowed from a recently closed tavern that had been on High and Osceola streets.

Photo courtesy of Dan Radig

Through the 70s, 80s, and 90s the name of the tavern and its owners seemed to change every few years. In the late 1980s it was the Buffalo Breath Saloon. It was managed by Jeff Fulbright, who would go on, in 1991, to launch the Mid-Coast Brewing Company of Oshkosh and Chief Oshkosh Red Lager. Here's a look inside the Buffalo Breath Saloon...

Photo courtesy of Jeff Fulbright.

In the end, the tavern was known as Nad's. It was run then by Nate Stiefvater, who now operates Barley & Hops Pub and Beer Garden on North Main Street. Nad's closed in 2001. The building, which was then almost 120 years old, was demolished soon after. Here's how it appeared in its final years...


Look around the next time you’re on Wisconsin Street near the bridge. That stretch used to be full of industry and saloons. All that has been cleared out. There’s not a hint left of how it once was.


Peoples Beer at the Oshkosh Public Library

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Wednesday, July 17, I’ll be talking Oshkosh beer history at the Oshkosh Public Library. The talk will focus on Peoples Brewing Company of Oshkosh and the incredible story of Wilhelm Kohlhoff, the last of the German-born brewers to make beer there.

Wilhelm Kohlhoff

It won’t be all talk. We’ll also have a keg of beer made by Jody Cleveland, head brewer at Bare Bones Brewery. Jody made this beer from the original recipe supplied by Kohlhoff. This is as close as you’re ever likely to get to the Peoples Beer that flowed in Oshkosh during the 1950s and 1960s.

The talk begins at 6 p.m. and will take place under the dome in the library. Free samples of beer will be available immediately following the talk. Hope to see you there!

Craig Zoltowski in The Cellar

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Over the past month, The Cellar, a beer and winemaking supply shop in Oshkosh, has been undergoing an expansion. Behind that expansion is one of the shop’s new owners. His name is Craig Zoltowski.

Craig Zoltowski at work in The Cellar

The Cellar opened in Fond du Lac in 2009 and moved to Oshkosh in 2016. Zoltowski and co-owner Jeff Duhacek purchased the business at 465 N. Washburn St. from Dave Koepke this past May. They've been operating the store since the beginning of June.

It's the first time either Zoltowski or Duhacek have run a homebrew shop, but they come to the business with bona fides, especially on the science side of brewing. Duhacek is a Ph.D. chemist. Zoltowski has a master’s degree in chemical engineering and an MBA. He's also a professional brewer.

Zoltowski is co-owner of Emprize Brew Mill, a brewpub that opened a year ago in Menasha. And with that, his path changed. "I've been in corporate America pretty much my entire career,” Zoltowski says. "I decided to get out and do this, do something I'm really passionate about."

His enthusiasm shows when he talks about his plans for the store. "We want to optimize this place," Zoltowski says. "We’re really trying to add a huge capability here that will help the homebrewers and small breweries and winemakers in this area. We’re adding more of just about everything.”

Inside The Cellar.

"We've added a lot of equipment," Zoltowski says. "We tripled out Blichmann inventory. We've added CO2 and nitrogen tanks. We have more corny kegs and fermenters and now we have sanke kegs and keg washers. We've also added more kits for wine and beer, and we've added a lot more honey for people who make mead. We're carrying a wider variety of yeast and hops. We're also starting to bring in more locally grown hops from Wisconsin and Michigan. We’ve probably added five times the amount of grain and new varieties of it. We also have a new, three-roller malt mill coming that we can really dial in, so we can offer different grain crushes for people who want that."

Zoltowski says his top priority now is a web-based ordering system. If it works as planned it will make the shop's inventory accessible online and allow people to place orders for pickup.

"We want to arrange it so we have people’s orders ready when they come in," he says. "What I'm thinking is, if you get an order in by 5 p.m. I can have it ready for pick-up by 10 a.m. the next morning. We're about to start beta-testing that and I'm hoping that in a month or so it will be ready. We want to make shopping here more convenient."

As part of that effort, the store is now open on Sundays. "That way if you are brewing on the weekend and run out of something you can come in and still finish your batch," Zoltowski says. "We're just trying to find ways to differentiate ourselves and provide a service. And we have the experience where we can answer questions and help people through their issues."

The educational component is something Zoltowski is also looking to expand. "Tim Pfeister is going to continue teaching classes here," he says. "Our goal is to eventually do a class every month. We’d like to be able to build it into something like a curriculum.”

Zoltowski says it's the community aspect of the shop that has been the most rewarding part of it for him so far.

"I enjoy the customer side of it,” Zoltowski says. "It's been fun. I'm an engineer, I like problem-solving and I really like teaching people. We’re trying to connect to the brewing community, both homebrewing as well as the nano and microbrewers and make it more like a co-op effort. We want to be a part of that community. There’s something powerful about that.”

Another "First" for Chief Oshkosh

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On this day in 1963, the Oshkosh Brewing Company introduced 8-packs of what it was calling the glass can, a 12-ounce stubby bottle of beer. OBC claimed it was the first Wisconsin brewery to offer this style of non-returnable bottle beer in 8-packs. Everybody else had 6-packs. The 8-packs sold for about $1.25. A case of returnable bottles of Chief Oshkosh went for $2.49 at that time.


These bottles are circa 1967.

A 1968 display.

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern, July 20, 1963.

Hidden Valley Hops Farm

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Justin Gloede is doing something in the Town of Winchester that hasn't been done there in almost 140 years. He's putting in a new hopyard.

Justin Gloede (green shirt) in his hop yard.

 Three years ago, Gloede planted a small set of hops on his family's farm in the Town of Winchester. Those plants have thrived. The bounty of hop cones they produced surprised and encouraged him. This year, Gloede decided to get serious about hops. He built a 12-pole trellis that covers about a tenth of an acre and began putting down roots.

"I have about 70 plants in the ground right now," Gloede says. "I’ll have roughly 110 plants total after I finish planting next year. I’m also going organic. No pesticides."


This is a long-term project. The typical hop yard takes 4-5 years to reach its potential in terms of yield. Gloede's work now is mainly about getting his plants established and setting a foundation for future growth. Mother Nature hasn’t been much help.

"What a year to try and grow hops," Gloede says. "All this rain is killing me."

Another rain-soaked day in the Town of Winchester.

Nevertheless, Gloede's yard is taking root. He's put in a diverse mix that includes Cascade, Chinook, Hallertau, Nugget, Saaz, and Tettnanger. He’s also planted a hop that goes back to the origins of hop growing in Winnebago County.

Gloede was given permission to harvest roots from the site of the old Silas Allen farm in Allenville. Allen's hopyard, planted sometime around 1849, was likely the first in Winnebago County. Hops still grow wild there. That plot is located about a mile from Gloede's yard and the hops he's transplanted from it have quickly acclimated to their new home.

"The Allenville hops are exploding," he says. "I’m already looking at putting in two more rows of it, but that's still to be determined."

Gloede has joined the Wisconsin Hop Exchange, a statewide cooperative established to assist hop growers, and he would eventually like to help supply area breweries and homebrewers with locally sourced hops. He has room to expand and plans to purchase a pelletizer once he's able to produce a sufficient harvest.

"I’m going to find a way to get a pelletizer at some point," Gloede says. And I’ll be open to pelletizing other peoples hops, too. No idea if there’s a market for that, but we'll see."

Gloede is joining a farming lineage that was nearly forgotten in Winnebago County. In the 1870s there were more than 115 acres of hops spread across the four northcentral Winnebago County townships of Clayton, Vinland, Winchester, and Winneconne. By the early 1880s, all of it had been plowed under. Gloede's yard is in the heart of those fertile lands. He could not have picked a better place to stage a revival.

You can follow the progress of Gloede's yard at the Hidden Valley Hops Farm Facebook page.

When Tuff Brewed Peoples

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His full name was George Alton Boeder. Nobody called him that. They called him Tuffy. Or just Tuff.

George "Tuff" Boeder.

Tuff Boeder was born in Oshkosh on January 15, 1914. He was second-generation American. His grandfather Friedrich Böder had come to the U.S. in 1880 from Pommern, which was then a province of Germany. Tuff lived all his life in Oshkosh. He grew up in a modest home on the east side of town, at what is now 1003 School Avenue. His boyhood home still stands.

1003 School Avenue. Oshkosh, Wisconsin.

His father, Paul Boeder, was already working in the beer business when Tuff was born. Paul had started as a bookkeeper at the Schlitz distribution house on Division Street in Oshkosh in 1911. At that time, Schlitz was trying to claw its way back to prominence in the Oshkosh market. The brewery had struggled here for much of the previous decade thanks, in large part, to the rising fortunes of the Oshkosh Brewing Company.

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern; November 29, 1912

That campaign had little success here. Schlitz finally gave up on Oshkosh and closed its branch here in 1918. Paul Boeder found a new job on the southside keeping the books for Peoples Brewing. He was there when Prohibition hit in 1920. The brewery quit making beer and started selling soda, fruit juice, near beer, malt tonics…


Prohibition ended in 1933. Peoples Brewing immediately went back to making real beer. Paul Boeder got Tuff a job there in 1936. Tuff married Ruth Pratsch that same year. He was 22 then. He’d come of age during the Great Depression when work in Oshkosh was hard to find. This was his first real job. He started out at Peoples putting labels on bottles.

“A lot was done by hand back then,” Tuff said. “We had to label each bottle separately. If we did 30 barrels a day that was a lot.”


Tuff moved up the ranks. In the early 1940s he began working as a route driver delivering Würtzer Beer and Old Derby Ale to local taverns and beer depots. He made $34 a week. Most of his stops were in and around town. Peoples had little need for wider distribution. The brewery was already growing at a good clip. Between 1943 and 1953 sales increased by 200 percent. “The taverns in Oshkosh wouldn’t buy that Milwaukee beer as long as Oshkosh had its own breweries,” Tuff said.


About 1951, Tuff moved back into the brewery. He went to work in the bottling department. Now he was making almost $55 for a 40-hour week. The days of hand labeling bottles were over. It had been automated. On a good day, that line could put out 50,000 bottles of beer.


In 1953, Tuff moved over to the brewhouse and began working as a brewer. He and Wilhelm Kohlhoff became the two principal brewers at Peoples. Kohlhoff had just started at the brewery. He was from Pommern, Germany; like Tuff’s family. The two of them became fast friends.

Wilhelm Kohlhoff

The brewmaster then was Dale Schoenrock. He had been with Peoples since 1940. Schoenrock was all business when it came to making beer.

"I’d get to work at three in the morning and start heating up the mash tub," Tuff said. "The temperature was critical. If the brewmaster said 56.5 degrees Celsius, he didn’t mean 56 or 57."

Dale Schoenrock

In 1956, Tuff was named Assistant Brewmaster. The work wasn't much different, but the pay was better. By 1957, he was making $73.40 a week. Tuff and Kohlhoff worked in shifts, turning out two or three batches of beer a day. The brewery was producing over 30,000 barrels of lager beer a year at this point.

"We used gravity to move the beer," Tuff said. "There were four floors. When it hit bottom it was done." At least Tuff's part was done. From there it went to the beer cellars for fermentation. "The brew would ferment for eight or nine days," he said. "It’s really going strong on day two. As it ferments, it gives off carbon dioxide gas and we’d collect and store this gas in huge tanks. Later on, this gas goes back into the beer (to carbonate it)."


Peoples had its own powerhouse and Tuff always worried that the massive steam generator would give out while he was brewing. It happened more than once. He had to "baby" those batches to completion. "If you lost your steam you could lose a brew," Tuff said. “That’s $5,000 down the drain. I never ruined a brew as long as I worked there."

Tuff told an incredible story that I can't verify. He said there was a period (presumably in the 1950s) when the Stroh Brewery of Detroit was making beer at Peoples. "They were having all kinds of trouble with their equipment, so we brewed it for them," Tuff said. "There were semis here, one right after the other picking up the beer. They gave us a recipe so we could match the flavor, but it wasn’t THE recipe. That’s always a secret."

There has to be more to this. When Tuff was brewing at Peoples, the Stroh Brewery was selling far more beer than Peoples was capable of making. By 1957 Stroh's annual output was 2.7 million barrels. The capacity of the Peoples brewery was well under 100,000 barrels annually. That said, the Stroh Brewery was shut down for 45-days by a strike in 1958. Perhaps Tuff’s recollections are in some way connected to that event. That’s just speculation, though.


Tuff worked in the brewhouse until the very end, 1972, when Peoples went bankrupt and closed. Theodore Mack was running Peoples then. Mack had come from Milwaukee where he had worked at Pabst. Tuff said that Mack offered to help him get a job at Pabst after Peoples shut down. Tuff didn’t want it. He didn’t want to move to Milwaukee. “I was getting too old,” he said. “Too close to retirement.”

Tuff had 36 years in at Peoples when the brewery failed. He wasn’t happy about it ending the way it did. “Ted Mack didn’t buy Peoples,” Tuff said. “Pabst did.” You can understand his disappointment, but there is no truth to that statement.

After he lost his job at Peoples, Tuff worked for a couple of years as a woodworker at Quality Builders. After he retired, he did a lot of fishing on the Fox River. He used hand-tied streamer flies and had a regular spot he liked that was near his home on School Avenue.

George “Tuff” Boeder passed away in that home on June 16, 1983. He was 69 years old.

––––––––––––––––––
A note on the quotes: They were sourced from an article published in the April 17,1980 Advance-Titan; the UW-Oshkosh student newspaper. The piece, ostensibly about Oshkosh brewing history, is riddled with factual errors. The article’s value is derived from the quotations it contains of former Oshkosh brewery workers. My aim here was to frame the Boeder quotes within a more fitting context. 


Talkin' Oshkosh Beer

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The good folks at Venture Wisconsin were nice enough to invite me on their show last night and allow me to talk (endlessly) about beer and brewing in Oshkosh past and present. We covered a lot of ground. You can find the video HERE.

Rahr Special Malts

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Post-Prohibition lager-beer color and grists. This is from the 1934 book A Century of Progress in Malting and Brewing from Rahr Malting Co. of Manitowoc, WI. I’ve reset the type to make it easier to read...


Introducing the Oshkosh Heritage Series

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On Tuesday, August 6, at 5 pm, Bare Bones Brewery will release the first beer in its new Heritage Series, a collection of beers celebrating Oshkosh's enduring history as a center for brewing. The series begins with Wilhelm's Beer. It’s a classic, American lager brewed from the recipe used to make Peoples Beer in the 1950s and '60s. The recipe was supplied by the late Wilhelm Kohlhoff, a brewer at Peoples Brewing in Oshkosh from 1953 until 1968.
Wilhelm Kohlhoff
The Heritage Series beers will be available in the taproom at Bare Bones and each pint sold will be accompanied by a commemorative postcard such as the one seen above. The flipside of each card will detail the backstory of the beer and its place within our local beer history.

The Heritage Series
Jody Cleveland, head brewer at Bare Bones, and I will be collaborating on this series of beers over the coming months. We have approximately 18 beers queued up. The oldest of them has its roots in the early 1850s. Our goal is to present beers that showcase the breadth of Oshkosh brewing history from the mid-1800s to the late 1960s.

The recipes for these beers are derived from research I've done over the past 10 years. In some cases, we'll be working from comprehensive recipes that came directly from the brewhouse where the beer was originally made. For other beers, we'll be building up recipes based upon brewery inventories, brewer's notes, brewing practices employed by the brewery, descriptions of the beer, and analysis of the style from the period when the beer was made. In each case, we're confident we'll be able to create a valid representation of the beers we intend to recreate.

That said, there are certain limiting factors that need to be acknowledged in any historical recreation of a beer. Malts changed significantly over the time span we intend to cover and have continued to evolve in the years since. Hops have undergone a similar transformation. For example, cluster hops – a hop favored by 19th and 20th century Oshkosh brewers – is today a much stronger hop in terms of its bittering potential than the cluster hops used by the Horn and Schwalm Brewery of Oshkosh in the 1870s. Equipment is another factor. We won't be fermenting these beers in pitch-lined wooden tubs like Jacob Konrad did in Oshkosh in 1849. But there are ways to work within these constraints. And our beacon will always be flavor. We're striving to recreate the flavors of these earlier beers.

The plan is to produce these beers in small batches. Most, if not all of them, will be draft only offerings available exclusively in the Bare Bones taproom.

In advance of each beer, I'll have a post here exploring the background of the beer and how we approached the recipe. For Wilhelm's Beer, that information is already available HERE.

The story of our local brewing history is one thing, but actually getting to taste that history can make it come alive in a way no retelling can accomplish. Jody and I are hoping to reanimate that history one pint at a time.

Kevin Bowen's Career at Fox River Brewing Comes to an End

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Kevin Bowen is leaving Fox River Brewing Company. He’s moving to France and ending his 10-year run as the brewmaster for Oshkosh’s largest brewery.

Kevin Bowen in the Fox River Brewhouse in Oshkosh, 2016.

Bowen's tenure at Fox River is notable for several reasons, not the least of which is the dramatic growth he oversaw while running the brewery’s facilities in Oshkosh and Appleton. Since becoming brewmaster in 2009, Fox River's production has increased by more than 250 percent. The brewery went from limited distribution to sending beer into nearly every part of the state. Along the way, Bowen has picked up his share of awards while hueing to an approach that has informed his brewing from the start. "I just wanted to make balanced, clean, flavorful beers," he says. "We had some successes doing that."

Charlie Papazian presenting Bowen with a World Beer Cup award in 2012.

Bowen began his career with Fox River in 1998 bussing tables at the brewery's Appleton brewpub. He was 16 years old. "It was really my first job," he says.

The beer-making side of the operation immediately caught his attention. Before long he was helping out on the brewery's makeshift bottling line. "I went from the bottom up," Bowen says. "It was like an apprenticeship and I was bursting at the seams. I was in love with what I was learning."

By 2002, he was working full time in the brewery under Fox River brewmaster Brian Allen. “Brian took me under his wing,” Bowen says. “We wound up having a great mentor/protégé relationship. I learned the ropes by doing grunt work.”

In 2005, Bowen attended the Siebel Institute on a brewing scholarship. A year later he became brewmaster at the Hereford and Hops brewpub in Wausau. Bowen took over the position from Kevin Eichelberger, who went on to launch Red Eye Brewing.

Bowen was all of 24 years old and in his element. "It was an oversized brewing system, with plenty of capacity, so I could put a lager into a fermentor and not have to worry about it tying things up," he says. "That's where I really started getting passionate about lager beer and really figuring out how to brew them."

Bowen returned to Fox River in 2008, just prior to the departure of Brian Allen. "Brian and I worked together for a few months again before he left and I took over as the brewmaster," Bowen says. "Brian had been brewing mostly ales, and I brought back that lager flair that I was doing up at Hereford and Hops. I wanted to bring my own flavor to the brewery."

Bowen had re-entered Fox River at the beginning of its most subdued period. Following the financial crisis of 2007/2008, the brewery had retrenched; abandoning its forays into Green Bay, Madison, and Milwaukee and discontinuing most of its distribution. "Things were kind of at their quietest right then," Bowen says. "It gave me intimate time at the brewery to work it myself. That's also when the hop shortages of 2010 and 2011 hit."

The shortages forced Bowen to rework Fox River’s recipes. One of those he remade was Fox Light, a Kolsch-style beer that was among the brewery's top sellers. In 2010, he submitted his reformulated Kolsch to the biennial World Beer Cup and took a bronze medal. "It was the first brewer’s conference I had been to and it was for a German-style,” he says. “The panel was made up of German judges and I was going against several German brewers. To win that award at that time was huge for me.”

With that, came change. Production at Fox River began inching upwards and as the hop shortage eased Bowen brewed a series of hop-forward beers that challenged the brewery's norms. He became the first brewer in Oshkosh to produce modern, American-style IPAs. "It was crazy," said Jay Supple, CEO of Fox River Brewing. "All of a sudden, we were bringing IPAs out and they'd be gone in six days."

As production climbed, the brewery re-entered distribution and in 2015 installed a new bottling line at its Appleton location. "That led to us really building the brand," Bowen says. "It was that bottler that really got us out there." Much of what went into those bottles was BLU Bobber, a fruit beer introduced at Fox River by Brian Allen in 2004 and reshaped by Bowen over the ensuing years. Under Bowen, BLU grew into Fox River's best-selling beer.


"Retailers were continually asking us for more, but we had hit our absolute maximum capacity," Bowen says. "It was stressful for sure, but it was exciting, too. To get that embrace from ownership to go into this with me and for me to lead this thing for them was great. It was what I wanted for sure."

To circumvent the capacity issue, Fox River contracted with Hinterland Brewing in 2018 to produce BLU Bobber at its new facility in Green Bay. "We wouldn’t have been able to go statewide and continue to develop the relationships we already had if we hadn't done that," Bowen says. "It took us a good six months to get the recipe into their system and really dialed in so that it was the same as the beer we produce here."

Last year, between the breweries in Oshkosh and Appleton and the production he oversaw in Green Bay, Bowen pushed 3,587 barrels of beer through the Fox River pipeline. That's over 600 barrels of beer more than the brewery produced in its previous peak year of 2017.

"I guess that's what I'm most proud of," Bowen says. "The growth has been fantastic to see. It boils down to the beer being well received and the demand for it consistently growing 20 to 30 percent a year. I hope it continues to grow. Right now a lot of that is about servicing parts of the state we're just now hitting."

But that’s no longer going to be Bowen's concern. He leaves the brewery August 16th. On September 1st, he will be on his way to France.

"I had a bit of a milestone," Bowen says. "I'm not old enough to call it a mid-life anything, but I've been here for 10 years and I'm really proud of what we've done, but a lot of the hustle here is maybe more of a young guy's thing to wrestle with."

That's not entirely why he's going to France, though. "Well, on top of that I'm chasing a girl," he says. "We met a year ago, and it's really good. Her primary residence is in France. We had to decide if she would come back here or if I would go there."

"It was tough to make the decision, but I'm ready for that next step," Bowen says. "I'm ready to explore some different opportunities. I guess I'm a traditional brewer and I'm still passionate about traditional beers. Not that I'm really against or fed up with anything, but a part of why I'm going to Europe is because I've been enamored with that tradition that I learned through beer. Moving there is literally living out my beer-geek dream.”

“I looked at myself at 37 and said if I don't do this now… I don't know how to describe it really. Right now, I just want to immerse myself in that culture and see if I can get a job at a brewery there. I want to keep growing myself into a better brewer. I have these ambitions. I want to build a brewery, eventually. Partly, this is about learning how to take risks. I'm risking a lot. I'm letting go of something very stable that I've been a part of for a long time. Hopefully, it's the right thing to do and proves that risk is worth taking."

I’m Talkin’ Prohibition...

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This Saturday, August 17, I’ll be at the Oshkosh Public Museum telling the story of Prohibition in Oshkosh. As you’ve probably already gathered by skimming this blog, this town went wild during the “dry” years.

The talk starts at 1pm. And after the talk, we’ll sample a few beers courtesy of Fifth Ward Brewing. FYI: The Museum charges an $8 admission fee for non-members ($6 for seniors). OPM members get in free. Hope to see you there!

For more info, CLICK THIS, or checkout the Facebook event page.

Happy John’s Happy Tap

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Here's a quirky cul de sac of Oshkosh beer history. We're going back to 1907 when Oshkosh saloon keeper "Happy" John Wawrzinski came up with a better way of pouring kegged beer.

Wawrzinski ran Happy John’s Algoma Liquor House and Sample Room at the southwest corner of Oshkosh Avenue and Sawyer streets. The best picture I have of the place is from the early 1950s when it was Gordy's Bar. Here you go...


All that is long gone. It was wiped away by the City of Oshkosh after it purchased the property in 1974. The city knocked it down, paved it over, and made the land part of the street.

Let’s get back to that happier time with Happy John in 1907. Wawrzinski was serving up the Oshkosh Brewing Company's beer when he hatched an idea for a beer tap that would pour less foam and more beer.

The “novel construction” of the Wawrzinski tap prevented pressure within the beer keg from entering into the tap line. And that helped to eliminate excessive foaming when pouring a mug of nickel beer (the going rate at all Oshkosh saloons in 1907). It was also supposed to help keep contaminants in the tap from entering into the keg and spoiling the beer. Sounds great.

It was a complicated piece of work. Here is the design Wawrzinski submitted when he applied for a patent on his improved beer tap.

“Be it known that I, John Wawrzinski, residing in Oshkosh, in the county of Winnebago and State of Wisconsin, have invented new and useful Improvements in Beer-Taps.”

Wawrzinski's application was filed on April 12, 1907, by Benedict, Morsell, and Caldwell; a Milwaukee law firm specializing in patents, trademarks, and copyrights. On February 18, 1908, Wawrzinski was granted US Patent 879604 A. His patent expired in 1925. By that time, he was no longer pouring the Oshkosh Brewing Company's beer. OBC had halted production. Prohibition was on.

One of these days I need to get something posted here about the history of Wawrzinski’s saloon. It was quite the place in its day. A beer palace! I'll get to it... some day.

Andrew Roth Takes Over at Fox River

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For the first time in a decade, there's a new brewmaster at Fox River Brewing Company. He's 29-year-old Andrew Roth.

Andrew Roth in Fox River’s Oshkosh brewhouse.
Roth becomes the sixth brewmaster at Fox River since the brewery opened in 1995. He replaces Kevin Bowen, who left Fox River earlier this month. Although Roth may be new as brewmaster, he isn't new to Fox River. He's been the lead brewer there for the past 10 months. Before coming to Fox River, Roth had worked as an assistant brewer at Pearl Street Brewery in La Crosse.

Roth will be leading a brewery that has seen its fortunes rise significantly over the past four years. Production has more than doubled in that time. Much of that growth is attributable to the popularity of BLÜ Bobber, Fox River's flagship beer. Roth doesn't have any intention of tinkering with that success. "I think I'd be fired if I went to change BLÜ Bobber," Roth says. "The Bago Brews are not going anywhere, that won't be changing."

But there will be plenty of other changes. "You're going to start seeing a lot of new stuff coming through," Roth says. "I'm still figuring out the schedule, but we're going to introduce a series of new beers in the taprooms with new releases coming out on Thursdays. We’re going to have a more planned release schedule and give people advance notice when new beers go on. We need to get better about that."

Among the first of the new beers will be Hoppy Otter, a hop-forward lager that defies easy categorization. It's made from English malts, German yeast, and American hops. "I can't think of a style for it in all honesty," Roth says. "It doesn't fit most of the guidelines. It's one I've done at home a few times and it’s always gone over well."

Though he began brewing professionally in 2015, Roth's approach is still very much rooted in the homebrew ethos of experimentation and creativity. He began making mead in 2010 and then stepped into beer after his father gave him a homebrewing kit for Christmas. "I kind of just got sucked into it," he says. "It consumes you. After a year or two of homebrewing, I realized I was sticking inordinate amounts of my time and energy into it. I hit kind of a wall in what I could do. I mean, it's hard to afford things like a lab or filtration when you're brewing at home. So I figured, if I'm going to keep brewing this much, somebody is going to need to start paying me for it."

Roth was making plans to launch a nano-brewery when he was hired by Pearl Street in 2015 as an apprentice brewer. He moved from Fond du Lac, where he had grown up, to La Crosse, but still maintained his ties to the local homebrewing community. Since 2016 he's been teaching a series of weekend brewing classes at The Cellar Brew Shop in Oshkosh. He's also remained active in the Central Wisconsin Vintners & Brewers, a homebrew club based out of Fond du Lac. Roth says now he'll need to begin drawing back from some of those activities.

As brewmaster at Fox River, Roth will have five brewers working under him and breweries in Appleton and Oshkosh to oversee. He's already begun making changes in the brewhouse. "We have a very manual system and we operate it off a lot of old school methods," Roth says. "I'm looking to bring modernization and more modern techniques to the brewhouse. And we are definitely looking at getting a deeper amount of lab work done."

All of this signals something of a new direction for Fox River. The continuity of the brewery's approach has been one of its strong points. But it's also left Fox River behind the curve when it comes to attracting the attention of drinkers seeking something other than the tried and true styles. That should begin to change under Roth. “I'm enjoying bringing some modernity to the brewery,” he says.


When Canned Beer Came to Oshkosh

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Off we go to 1935 when canned beer first arrived in Oshkosh. And what was the first canned beer sold here? That would be this one, Pabst Export...



Pabst was the second American brewery to can its beer. The first was Krueger Brewing of Newark, which released its cream ale in cans in January 1935. In August 1935, Pabst began canning its Export Beer, and in early September 1935, those cans began rolling into Oshkosh.

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern, September 9, 1935.
These were flat-top cans without a tabbed opening. To get at the beer you had to use this new thing called a churchkey. If you bought the beer, they'd give you a churchkey to go with it. The instructions were printed on the side of the can.




Cans of Pabst Export were distributed in Oshkosh by Kuebler Distributing from its warehouse on the north side of Parkway just east of Main (the building is gone). Pabst advertised the new package heavily here. The ads touted the benefits of the "Keglined TapaCan” lined with a polymer coating to keep the beer tasting like beer and not like tin.

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern, September 24, 1935.

A case of canned Pabst Export sold for $2.75 when it was first introduced in Oshkosh. At the time, it was the most expensive beer sold here. Budweiser was also being sold in Oshkosh then for $2.75. In today's money that would be about $40. Meanwhile, a case of bottles of Chief Oshkosh or Peoples or Rahr's sold for a measly $1.75.

A few months after the Pabst cans appeared, G. Heilemann Brewing of La Crosse began selling cans of Old Style beer in Oshkosh. They arrived in time for the 1935 holiday season. It was the first cone-top style can sold here. Old Style was distributed here by Lee Beverage of Oshkosh, which is still going strong.

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern, December 18, 1935.


Next came Schlitz, hitting Oshkosh with its cone-top cans in March 1936. The Schlitz cone tops were also brought in by  Kuebler Distributing. This was an odd one. Schlitz promoted it as a kind of health-food... "Stay on the "sunny side" by drinking SCHLITZ SUNSHINE VITAMIN D BEER. It brings you Vitamin D... developed directly by the sun's rays!"

Oshkosh Daily Northwestern, May 27, 1936.


The cans kept on coming. The local breweries were in no hurry to join in. The Oshkosh Brewing Company became the first brewery here to can its beer. OBC introduced crowntainers of Chief Oshkosh in 1949. But by that time, the novelty of canned beer had faded. It was just another can of beer. Not anymore. The website Breweriana.com puts the value of this can at $2,800. And to think, you could have bought a six-pack of them in 1949 for less than a dollar.

Like to know more? Here's An Illustrated History of Oshkosh Beer Cans.

The Strange Case of Peoples Beer in Nigeria

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Theodore Mack had a line he often repeated for reporters. "When the going gets rough, I send me."

Theodore Mack

In 1972, the going for Mack got very rough. Since becoming president of Peoples Brewing in 1970 he had discovered just how brutal the beer business could be. In early 1972, Mack's brewery was faltering. Bills were going unpaid and the brewery’s board of directors was demanding answers. That fall, the downward thrust turned fatal. Peoples Brewing stopped making beer during the third week of October 1972. And that's when things got weird.

On November 2, Peoples Brewing sued the federal government claiming the brewery had been blocked from securing contracts to supply beer to the military. The lawsuit was an act of desperation. Peoples had already defaulted on loans backed by the Small Business Administration. The federal government was threatening to seize the brewery.

While that was playing out, Mack announced that he was considering moving Peoples to Alabama. On Friday, December 1, Mack led Alabama state legislator Fred D. Gray on a tour of his moribund brewery in Oshkosh. The two of them were childhood friends. After the tour, they drove to Milwaukee and held a news conference. Mack told reporters he would visit Alabama within the next 10 days. He said, "I don't run around the country unless I mean business."

The obstacles to this adventure would have been monumental. Considering the position he was in, it’s extremely unlikely that Mack would be able to raise the money or credit needed to move the brewery's operations to Alabama. Then there’s the fact that commercial brewing in Alabama wasn't even legal in 1972. Back in Oshkosh, Mack tempered his bluster. The Daily Northwestern reported on December 4 that Mack now "disclaimed" the stories about moving the brewery to Alabama.

Then came the plans for Africa. On January 8, 1973, Mack left for Nigeria. Four days later, he arrived in Ogbomosho, a city in southwest Nigeria. There, Mack met with a group of potential investors and pitched his idea for building a brewery in the city. In a letter signed by Mack dated January 16, 1973, he affirmed that the Nigerians, “Were very interested in the People’s Brewery Company being established in Ogbomosho.” The plan was to build a 200,000 barrel brewery at a proposed cost of $8 million. “It is believed by both parties that extreme haste is of the utmost essence in this matter,” Mack concluded.

Such high hopes. They may have been farfetched, but the idea itself was sound. The Nigerian beer market was booming and on the verge of another upsurge of growth. Mack’s plan might have worked.

Beer in Nigeria, 1970s.

What a drag it must have been for him to come back to the hopeless mess still waiting in Oshkosh. A couple of weeks after returning from Nigeria, Mack sent out a letter on Peoples Brewing Company stationary. The letter opened with...

Dear Stockholder:
There will be a stockholders meeting Tuesday, February 20, 1973, at 10:00 a.m., at Jabber’s Bar, 1518 South Main Street, Oshkosh. Jabber’s is adjacent to the brewery.


The shuttered brewery and the neighboring Jabbers Bar. The Pabst sign in front of Jabber's replaced a sign for Peoples Beer that had hung there when the brewery was open.
The meeting had to be held at the bar next door because there were no lights in the brewery. The power had been cut off. Mack went on in the letter to tell of the latest woes including the news that the Marshall & Ilsley Bank had informed him that “The Peoples Brewing Company has reverted back to the federal government.” It was a roundabout way of telling the shareholders that their money was lost. On a brighter note, Mack mentioned his recent trip to Nigeria. But he was not currently “in a position to reveal what transpired there.”

Fifteen months later there were wrecking balls knocking down the brewery on South Main in Oshkosh. The plan for the brewery in Nigeria came to nothing. The Peoples Brewing Company was dead. Mack quit the beer business. He remained in Oshkosh and went to work selling insurance for New York Life.



Peoples Brewing and African American Entrepreneurship in the Civil Rights Era

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John Harry, a graduate student in history at UW-Milwaukee, recently published a scholarly article in Voyageur Magazine about the final years of Peoples Brewing of Oshkosh. In conjunction with his article, Harry is speaking Thursday night (September 12) at Fifth Ward Brewing in Oshkosh. He'll be talking about Theodore Mack, the last president of Peoples, and Mack's role in leading Peoples as a black-owned brewery during the civil-rights era.

I've known John for a while now and can attest that he brings an interesting perspective to this complex story and how it relates to what was happening in our city in the early 1970s. John’s talk begins at 7pm. Hope to see you there!

Butch: The Life of an Oshkosh Bootlegger

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"There were any number of wildcats in Oshkosh,” Cyril said. “But there were two big operations. Butch Youngwirth ran one of them. He was quite a guy."

Cyril worked as a driver during Prohibition transporting bootleg alcohol in and out of Oshkosh. The wildcats he spoke of were breweries that produced beer during the dry years. Cyril knew Butch Youngwirth well. And there's no doubt that Butch was quite a guy.

His full name was Frank Joseph Youngwirth. He was born on August 7, 1892, in Marshfield, Wisconsin. His parents were immigrants from Bohemia who had come to America in the late 1880s. The family moved to Oshkosh when Butch was still a boy. Frank and Albina Youngwirth would have 18 children in all. Butch was their oldest.

The Frank and Albina Youngwirth family, circa 1910. Young Butch stands tall in the center of the back row.

He grew up on the south side in a house on 6th between Idaho and Knapp streets. There was a saloon at one end of the block and a church at the other. His father was a laborer who also sometimes worked as a bartender at Joseph Nigl's saloon at 9th and Ohio. The Youngwirths were part of a growing population called Highholders – a tight-knit community of working-class Bohemian and Bavarian immigrants living south of the Fox River in Oshkosh’s 6th and 13th wards.

Butch Youngwirth's boyhood home at 906 West 6th Avenue.

Butch wasn't much for school. He quit before he had turned 15. He took a job in a lumber yard. He was 20 and still living at home when he married Henrietta “Hattie” Smith in 1913. Hattie was a few months older than Butch and, like him, she was first-generation American.

Butch and Hattie on their wedding day, April 2, 1913.

The newlyweds moved to the other side of town. They rented a small house on a V-shaped lot at the northwest corner of Pearl and Jackson. It wasn't much. Butch got a job working at a machine shop on Oregon. Hattie stayed home and had babies. Their first was named Harold. He was born 10 months after they had married. Almost every year after, there was another baby on the way. Over the next seven years, Hattie gave birth to six more children.

Hattie and Butch, circa 1918, with their four children (left to right) Norman, Dorothy, Clarence, and Harold.

The Youngwirths were scraping by. Butch couldn't seem to settle into anything. He bounced from job to job and the family went from one rented home to the next. They eventually moved back to the 6th Ward and into a rented house on 5th Street. It was practically in the back yard of the house where Butch had grown up. He was working as a roofer when apparently he decided he’d had enough of this kind of living.

In October 1921, Hattie gave birth to George, their fifth son. He would be the last of their seven children. A few months later, Butch took a lease on a soda parlor at the northeast corner of 6th and Ohio. Soda parlors were unheard of in Oshkosh until Prohibition began in 1920. Now there were almost a hundred of them. They had been saloons before the dry law went into effect. Butch's place was one of those that made the switch.

556 West 6th Avenue, the former home of Butch's speakeasy.

There had been a bar there since about 1877 when the property was purchased by John Luck who converted the building into a grocery store/saloon. They had been selling liquor there ever since. The Oshkosh Brewing Company bought the saloon in 1906 and ran it as a tied house until Prohibition hit. In May 1922, the brewery sold the property to a woodworker named John Mauritz who, in turn, leased the building to Butch. Butch got a license to sell soft drinks and went into business for himself.

Butch had no interest in selling soda water. There was no money in that. Like nearly all of Oshkosh's new soda parlors, Butch's place operated as a speakeasy. It wasn’t long before he attracted the attention of the police. On August 7, 1922, Butch Youngwirth celebrated his 30th birthday. A week later, he was arrested on a charge of selling bootleg liquor at his soda parlor. He had picked the wrong time to launch a speakeasy.

Since the start of Prohibition, Oshkosh police had shown little interest in enforcing the dry law. That changed – temporarily at least – after the July 29, 1922 death of Marie Repp. The 19-year-old Repp, had drowned in Sawyer Creek after attending a dancing and drinking party held at a former saloon on what is now Oshkosh Avenue. Her death brought on a public outcry for the police to do something about the tide of bootleg booze flowing through the city. Butch was caught up in the ensuing dragnet.

On the night of August 14, 1922, Butch's speakeasy was raided by Oshkosh Police Chief Arthur Gabbert. Gabbert walked in to find a  young girl with a glass of booze in front of her. Butch was arrested and fined. It was the one and only time he would be arrested on a liquor violation during Prohibition.

The incident did nothing to change his mind about the new path he was on. Butch would go on operating his speakeasy at 6th and Ohio until at least 1926. And as late as 1930, he was still sometimes telling people who didn't know him that he made his living running a soft drink parlor. Everybody who knew him knew better.

This photo, circa 1925, is believed to have been taken inside Butch's speakeasy at 6th and Ohio. Butch stands behind the bar. The lack of signs or advertising for anything relating to alcohol is in stark contrast to the four men with mugs of beer standing at the bar.

It's unknown exactly when Butch transitioned from retailing alcohol to producing it. It's likely, however, that by 1924 he had already begun making his first forays into beer production. Butch was a brewer. Beer was the only drink he made. In Oshkosh, like much of Wisconsin, beer remained the alcoholic beverage of choice throughout the dry years.

The city grew rife with wildcat breweries. They sprung up in nearly every part of town. There were a number of organizations behind these breweries. "There was quite a few, little small ones," said the former bootlegger named Cyril. "Maybe 7 or 8 of them, I'd say, at least."

There were two organizations, though, that operated on a larger scale. Butch built his outfit into one of them. The other had its headquarters at the southwest corner of 9th and Knapp at a tavern that came to be known as the Böhmerwald.

What would become the Böhmerwald Tavern in the early 1900s.

An Oshkosh bootlegger named Slim was among those involved in the Böhmerwald group. “When I started, the agreement was made that we'd make the kegged beer and buy the bottled beer from them (Butch’s group),” Slim said. “Then something happened along the line there. First thing you know, they were making kegged beer and we were making bottled beer.”

These were not simple, homebrewing set-ups. These were commercial, albeit illegal, breweries in the truest sense. Some had bottling lines and pasteurized their beer. Others sold beer by the keg into saloons and private clubs. Some employed salesmen and delivery drivers and had production levels that surpass those of the craft breweries we have today.

One such brewery that Butch kept was located at 1325 Oregon. It operated in tandem with a speakeasy run by Mary Kollross at that same address. Mary's brother Eddie Kollross was part of Butch's outfit. When that brewery was raided by federal agents in 1930, they discovered more than 160 barrels of finished beer on hand and a four-head bottling machine.

The middle building with white siding at 1325 Oregon Street was the location of one of Butch’s breweries.

The risk of a brewery being raided was ever-present. For Butch, that risk was more financial than existential. "He’d pay the guy who owned the land to keep the brewery there, and also to take the rap if they got caught," Cyril said. "If they got sent to the House of Corrections in Milwaukee, Butch would pay him well for the time he spent there. I think about a hundred bucks a week."

Meanwhile, the beer kept on flowing. "He had quite a few places in town where he could be back in business in 24 hours if the feds came in and busted things up," Cyril said. "He only had one going at a time, but the others were always ready." Butch's oldest son Harold said that at one point his father had seven breweries; some in production others in waiting.

Butch wasn't averse to getting his family involved. One of his breweries was in the basement of the home where his sister Mollie lived at 826 West 6th Avenue. Her husband, Hubert "Hub" Molitor, was later arrested when he was caught working at what appears to have been another of Butch's breweries located on a farm on 20th Ave. When that brewery was raided in 1931, more than 350 barrels of fermenting beer were found on the premises. Federal agents described it as "a most elaborate plant... filled with large vats."

 The Oshkosh Daily Northwestern headline from August 26, 1931, after the raid on what was, in all probability, one of  Butch’s breweries.

The tall, thin young man who married Hattie Smith in 1913 had become a person he could scarcely have imagined a decade earlier. In the latter half of the 1920s, Butch's illicit operation flourished and he made no bones about who was boss. "He was an honest man," Cyril said, "but I'll tell you, you towed the mark when you worked for him. He was as honest as you could find, but he was big too, and he was about as wide as he was tall."

Butch was 6'3" and weighed about 250 pounds. His physical presence was central to the persona he adopted. "The guy was so intimidating," said his grandson Wayne Youngwirth. "He had hands that were just massive and he could be such a prick. He always wore this big ring. That thing was the size of a super-bowl ring. He'd sit there and turn it around on his finger when he talked to you."

"You remember old Bruno Siewert?" Cyril said. "He was a great big, heavy butcher. He was about as big as Butch. Well I’ll tell you, I walked into a tavern one time and Bruno Siewert was there drunk and so was Butch; he had a good shine on. And Bruno Siewert picked up a half-barrel full of beer, you know it was one of them wooden kegs and they were heavy. He put it on his shoulder and walked back and forth across the barroom with it. He set it down and said 'I'll give a hundred dollars to anybody here that can do that.' Butch gets up and says, 'Well, you just lost yourself a hundred dollars.'"

It was all part of the show. By the end of the 1920s, he had made himself notorious. "Butch was the most well known because he was always out and about drinking and gambling," Cyril said. "Geez, he was a wild man. Everybody knew him. I remember him and his buddies driving around in their Buicks every Monday to make their collections at the saloons. When they got all the money, they’d go over to this place, sit in a booth and put the money in a big pile in front of them. Then they'd start counting it. But they never bothered to count the singles. Just the big stuff. The singles they put off to the side."

That same scene was played out in the Youngwirth home. Butch's youngest son, George, recalled beer peddlers coming to the house at two or three in the morning to drop off money they had collected. The dining table would be heaped with cash. "I remember Butch made $38,000 one year and $40,000 the next," Cyril said. "That was a lot of money in those days."

It certainly was. And what Butch didn’t gamble away he kept mostly for himself. At the time, modern homes in Oshkosh were selling for less than $5,000. But Butch was keeping Hattie and their seven children in a $25 a month rental (since demolished) at 8th and Knapp. Butch wasn't spending much time there.

In the spring of 1925, Butch who was then 32, impregnated a 20-year-old woman who lived nearby his family’s home. Her name was Caroline Nachtmann and she lived with her parents at 1048 West 7th Avenue. She remained there after the birth of her daughter, Phyllis Ann Nachtmann, on December 17, 1925. Caroline's relationship with Butch was ongoing. It's not known when Hattie learned of it or of the daughter Butch had fathered. But their marriage deteriorated in the years that followed.

His relationship with Hattie wasn't the only thing coming to an end. By 1931, there was little doubt that Prohibition would be repealed. The return of legal beer was assured after Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected president in 1932. That spelled doom for the bootleggers. Butch’s business was wiped out when beer was legalized in April 1933. He wasn’t caught unprepared.

In 1930, Butch and Eddie Kollross bought a saloon formerly owned by Pabst Brewing. The building was near the northeast corner of Wisconsin and Pearl. There had been a speakeasy there during the early years of Prohibition. In August 1932, Butch bought out Eddie's stake in the property. And in 1933, after beer became legal again, he re-named the bar Butch's Tavern. He joined the Bartender's Union. He went legit.

Butch's post-Prohibition business card.

It was not a smooth period of transition. In 1932, he'd crashed his car into a vehicle on 4th Street. The occupant of the other car, Theodore Staerkel, was injured in the collision. Butch drove off. He was arrested the following morning and charged with drunk driving and leaving the scene of an accident. Staerkel wanted charges pressed, but a week later changed his mind to the dismay of the district attorney. Butch got off with a $100 fine.

Then in 1934, Butch and Hattie's oldest daughter, Dorothy, died at their home following a tonsillectomy. She was 18 years old. Butch and Hattie divorced not long after. The kids stayed with her. Hattie later moved the family into a modest home she purchased at the corner of 10th and Knapp. Butch moved into an apartment above his tavern on Wisconsin. His oldest son, Harold, went to work for him tending bar.

Butch with his parents in the early 1940s.

The former bootlegger settled into an existence more mundane than the one he had grown accustomed to. He had managed to put some money into real estate and stocks, but as the years went on almost all of that was sold off to pay for his gambling and the price of maintaining a reputation that had become central to the identity he liked to project.

"In taverns, he was always buying drinks and trying to be the big-time operator," recalls his grandson Wayne Youngwirth. "He was always throwing money around." Butch wouldn't talk about bootlegging, but as Wayne came of age he began to learn bits and pieces of the story. And there was a certain privilege that came with being his grandson. Wayne said, "By the time I was 15, my brother and me were going into bars and everybody knew we were Butch's grandsons. These older guys would say 'Get Butch's grandson one.' No one ever gave us any shit."

But the downside was fierce. "Grandpa was such a mean son of a bitch," Wayne said. "I could tell you story after story about him. He never was a family guy, but he would come over every Sunday for dinner. My dad helped him out all the time, but Butch would never do a damned thing to help him. None of his boys liked to talk about him because of all of the shit he pulled when they were growing up. He’d come home in the middle of the night screaming and hollering, all bombed, and then there were the mistresses and all of that. They knew everything, they saw it. My dad forgave him all the time for the bullshit he pulled. I never could understand that."

Hattie died in 1957 at the age of 65. She was buried in Lake View Memorial Park next to the grave of her daughter Dorothy. Butch was still seeing Caroline Nachtmann. For years she worked at Diamond Match, just down the street from his tavern. She still lived in the house at 1048 West 7th Avenue where she had raised their daughter. The house had become hers after the death of her mother in 1954. Caroline Nachtmann committed suicide in that house in 1965. She tied an electric cord around her neck and hung herself from a sewage pipe in the basement. Her body was discovered later that day by Phyllis, the daughter Butch had fathered.

Butch sold his tavern to his son Harold in 1963. He retired the following year at the age of 72. A year after that, Harold sold the bar to the Wisconsin Board of Regents. They tore it down. Butch moved into a small apartment attached to the tavern owned by his son Leroy at 7th and Knapp.

Leroy’s Bar at 701 Knapp Street.
The adjoining building at 703 Knapp is the apartment where Butch resided during the final years of his life.

"Grandpa, as he got older, was burning through everything he had," Wayne said. "Leroy built that apartment for him. My mom, who hated him, always had to take meals over. He didn’t go out much anymore."

On April 27, 1973, Butch was admitted to Mercy Medical Center. He never left. Butch died there on May 2, 1973. Frank Joseph Youngwirth was 80 years old.

"My dad called me and told me Grandpa passed away," Wayne said. “I had already heard it from Leroy. There was a lot of bitterness there. The kids all got together and I'll never forget it. I was sitting there and I knew it was going to get heated. Leroy got up and said, 'Where are we going to put him?' Then Clarence got up and said. 'That fucker is not going to be buried next to my mother. That fucker can rot in hell.' It was vicious. He was buried at Sacred Heart Cemetery next to his mistress. I helped carry that son of a bitch right there to his grave."

Butch’s headstone in Sacred Heart Cemetery.
The statue of the Madonna seen behind it stands beside the grave of Caroline Nachtmann.

Hoppy and Fresh

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There are two beers being released by Oshkosh breweries this week that signify new things happening here.

Hoppy Otter at Fox River River
Hoppy Otter will go on tap this afternoon (Thursday, September 19) at Fox River in Oshkosh. This is the first Fox River beer formulated by its new brewmaster, Andrew Roth. His homebrewing roots are on display as he takes what would otherwise be a standard amber lager and shapes it into something all its own. Roth says this is a beer with a "bit of an identity crisis." He starts with a base of English malts and then brings in a heavy dose of late-addition Mosaic hops that blend tropical-fruit flavors into that malty background. With Roth running the brewhouse, I suspect we'll be seeing quite a bit more of this style-bending approach coming from Fox River in the future. Hoppy Otter is 5% ABV.

Farm Fresh at Bare Bones
Friday, September 20, Bare Bones releases its third wet hop ale in as many years. Wet hop beers use fresh, unprocessed hops that are not dried prior to brewing. This year's batch of Farm Fresh is going to be different. For the first time, Bare Bones has partnered with a Winnebago County hop grower. The hops are from Hidden Valley Hops Farm operated by Justin Gloede in the Town of Winchester. This is the first commercial beer to have been made using Gloede's hops. “I'm pretty excited about that,” Gloede says. Farm Fresh uses organic cascades that were picked just a couple of hours before they went into the Bare Bones kettle. It was a small-batch brew, so it won't be around long. This is local beer in the most elemental sense.

Freshly picked hops at Hidden Valley Hops Farm.

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